The wool merchant’s finery

Greetings, I am Hawisia de Groote from the Barony of Castlemere in Trimaris.
My plan is to complete a persona-appropriate outfit for a prosperous wool merchant in Shrewsbury, England during the reign of Henry IV (1399-1413): shift, kirtle, outer garment (houppelande or outer cote), hosen and garters, veil and headdress.
The only special thing that I plan to attempt is the finishing of an embroidered alms pouch and, if my own garments are completed within the time frame, a matching outfit for my 4yo daughter.

This will push me out of my comfort zone- not only have I never made a fitted-to-me garment, but I’m also aiming somewhat later than my usual mid-to-late 14th c. dress. My daughter has been my test model for a few years (it’s much easier to try out new things with a body that needs only one yard of fabric rather than four or five) but for the first time I’m going to dive in and make my own dream outfit.

The materials gathered so far are a mix of white linen (for undergarments and veiling) and wool that I’ve been saving for that special project, pewter and brass buttons, linen thread and beeswax, reproduction garter buckles, and button cording.

I did prepare in part by piecing out a linen shift and handsewing a new cap. If I have time for “stretch” projects, I may have a go at making some new veil & clothing pins and possibly a fancier veil or headdress.

My inspirations for this particular project are some late 14th/early 15th c effigies and brasses that inspired the transitional houppelande-looking pleated “1380s women’s buttoned gown” in Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, the many-buttoned and tightly fitted cotes of the era, and the ridiculously delightful veiling (with and without frills) on many of the effigies and brasses.