Late 15th Century French Outfit

Greetings! I am Kitta Refr, and I hail from the Barony of Rivenoak in the Kingdom of the West. I am entering into the Advanced category, and my entry is a late 15th century French outfit based on those worn in the illuminated manuscript, Vie et miracles de monseigneur saint Louis ou Livre des faits de monseigneur saint Louis, or Life and miracles of Monsignor Saint Louis or Book of facts of Monsignor Saint Louis. This manuscript was published somewhere between 1480-1488. Specifically, my outfit is based on this particular woman, along with inspiration on other parts of the book, such as one of the many alms pouches depicted in other scenes.

I will be making the following pieces, using self-drafted patterns:

  • Red hood with lyrepipe – wool, lined in linen
  • Teal cotehardie – 85/15% wool/nylon blend, partially lined in linen, lacing is teal lucet woven wool/silk blend
  • Red supportive kirtle – linen, self lined, lacing is black cotton corset lacing
  • Partlet – silk gauze
  • White shift (partially assembled already), – cotton/ linen blend
  • Yellow hose – wool
  • Teal and yellow tablet woven or inkle woven ties to hold up hose – mercarized cotton
  • Red alms pouch – woven patterned satin, unknown fiber, lined in white linen, with synthetic gold satin cord and tassels

I have already made or acquired the following pieces:

  • St. Birgitta’s cap – white cotton/ linen blend, already owned
  • Shoes – brown leather, purchased from Armstreet
  • Belt – brown leather with brass findings, purchased from Armstreet

My stretch goal is to add embroidery and possibly beading similar to that pictured above along the neckline of the cotehardie IF I have enough time, using gold couched thread and red glass beads and/or pearls.

My original plan was to hand sew everything, but between this project and going to school full time, along with other commitments, I decided that was probably not feasible in one month. Therefore, I will be machine assembling each piece (other than the shift, which is nearly done), and finishing all visible seams by hand.

I am so excited to start this challenge! Here is a picture of all of my materials (except the gold satin cord for the alms pouch, that’s still on it’s way).

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4 Responses to Late 15th Century French Outfit

  1. Fionna Goodburne MacNicol says:

    Hi Kitta! I am Fionna, one of the judges. I am looking forward to watching your progress and reading about the assembly of the pieces. It should be very nice!

  2. Beatrice Domenici della Campana says:

    Hello, Kitta! I’m Beatrice, and I’m one of the judges for your group!

    I appreciate the clarity of how you’ve laid out your inspiration, your intentions as to pieces, and your materials here, to give us a road map of what’s to come.

    Have you made choices yet for the locations of the closures for your kirtle and your gown?

    • Kitta Refr says:

      Hi Beatrice!

      Yes, I’m planning to have both the kirtle and cotehardie lace in the front. I thought of having the kirtle lace on the side, but I decided I wanted the easiest means of exit when I want to take it off, because after an event I am usually exhausted and just want to get out of my garb as soon as possible, or possibly sooner. 🙂

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